Sometimes it can be a pain to match pockets perfectly when working with a stripe, plaid or printed fabric. Here’s an easy way to match a stripe for front jacket pockets:
1. Lay out lower front jacket pattern tissue piece with cut self fabric attached. It’s easy to see the stripe through the tissue to copy the lines.
2. Fold pocket pattern piece on top fold line and locate the seam allowances on each side. (marked with arrows) My particular pocket pattern piece had a pleat in the center of the pocket. Having a pleat in the center of the pocket can make it difficult to match the stripes on both sides of the pocket.
3. Place pocket pattern piece on large circles indicating pocket placement.
4. Fold in pleat on pattern piece. Vertically mark stripes from fabric on each side of the pocket pattern piece.
5. Open pocket pattern piece and layout on fabric carefully following vertical stripes on the right side of the pocket first or which ever side is closest to the center front.
6. Check left side for matching stripes. In my case, the pocket pattern piece matched the vertical stripe pretty well with the pleat unfolded, so I only pinched out a small bit of the pocket pattern piece from the line I marked (cut).
7. If the stripe doesn’t match closely, I would “cut” on that line and overlap the pocket pattern piece so the stripe would match perfectly. By doing so, you end up with an altered pleat.
This technique works for any applied pocket, pocket flap, or welt. I hope you find this process easy and end up with very professional looking pockets.