Step 4: Match the edges with the single hash mark together and stitch at 1/4″. Press open. Now you have a parallelogram. Remember that from Geometry Class?? Well NOW it’s finally useful!!
|Right sides together, 1/4″ seam|
Step 5: Decide how wide you want your bias to be and mark lines across your piece. I chose 1 1/4″ wide for my bias. At this point I figured that I wouldn’t have enough bias for my project so I modified my plans a bit.
Step 6: If you realize this BEFORE you move on, you won’t have to repeat this entire process again and make a separate tube of continuous bias. Follow Steps 1-4 again and make another parallelogram exactly the same size as the first one. IT MUST BE THE SAME SIZE. I was using a piece of left over fabric and it was only 12″ in length. You can cut your square of fabric as large as you like to accommodate your needs.
Step 7: Join the 2 parallelograms on the edge with the double hash marks. Now continue your lines across the joined section of fabric.
Step 8: Join the edges with the double hash marks. Offset the lines by one width of the bias. Make sure you pin the seam joining the lines at the seam line, not the lines from the edge. I poke a pin in at the seam line and then poke it through the seam line of the other side to match it perfectly. Sew at 1/4″. Press open and you’re finished!!
|Pin poking through both sides at seam lines.|
|Lots of pins to prevent shifting.|
|Finished bias tube inside out.|
Step 9: Cut on the lines and you’ll be surprised how much bias you end up with.
|Finished bias tube, right side out with cutting lines.|