I Can’t Take It Anymore ~ My Approach to Fitting!!
OK. Here we go. I’ve been sitting on the sidelines for YEARS reading article after article, post after post and complaint after complaint about how to personally fit patterns. Literally, I CAN’T TAKE IT ANYMORE!!! Now I don’t want to call anyone out, because I feel every one’s entitled to their own approach and ideas on the delicate matter of “fitting”. However, it seems that there has been a “passing of the buck” lately in which it’s been professionally suggested that those who are trying to fit a garment, measure a garment they currently own and then apply those measurements when fitting……WHAT?? Here in lies the problem…..If those that are trying so desperately to fit a garment HAD one that they were happy with the fit, there wouldn’t be an issue. NEWSFLASH!! People not only sew for the enjoyment (therapy) but to achieve a better fit than they can purchase in the retail marketplace. * If you already have a method that works for you, I’m not here to disparage or discredit it in any way. Good for You!! We’re all working toward a common goal: Perfectly fitted patterns!!
So I’ve decided to give you some background on me and write a series on why my methods are different. I am a professional fashion designer with years of experience in production pattern making. I mainly specialize in evening and bridal wear where fit is paramount. Fitting is not an easy job AND fitting yourself is even harder. There are no easy tricks or cheats, just good old fashion trial and error applying the correct body measurements with the proper amount of ease. In a perfect world we would all have dress forms that mimicked our bodies perfectly to create patterns, but we don’t. We must work with measurements to create a base pattern or a sloper on the table and then move on to a fabric sample to fine tune the fit. Next we will apply those corrections to the pattern, and thus create a TNT Pattern. It’s labor intensive, however it’s worth the time and effort if you seek to stop the fitting frustration and achieve a perfect fit.
The first thing and most important thing to keep in mind if you’re going to follow my series is to let go of the numbers and keep an open mind. We all want to be comfortable and look our best in our clothing. We all also want to look like the “picture” on the pattern envelope even though most of those are drawn in an artistic way about 10+ heads tall. Yes, I know in retail you may wear a particular size, however it’s really all about your body measurements. In most cases, the pattern envelope measurements rarely coincide with RTW manufacturing sizes. AND we all know how sizing varies from RTW manufacturer to manufacturer and pattern company to pattern company. Later in this series I will show you how to select the right size pattern. When a garment fits well, it flatters the body no matter what size you are. The good news is that when you design and make your own garments, you can put in a label with whatever size you’d like!! Shhhhh, that will be our secret.
I will be posting with a series I’ve written entitled, “My Approach to Successful Pattern Fitting”. Here are parts 1-8 in an overview form on what each part will encompass. I hope you will find my approach different and give it a try to solve some of your fitting dilemmas.
Part 1: Proper Measuring
Part 2: Ease: What, Where and How??
Part 3: Selecting the Right Size Pattern.
Part 4: Measurements: Where Do I Apply Them??
Part 5: Seam Allowances
Part 6: Cut and Sew a Fitting Sample
Part 7: Fine Tuning the Sample ~ Making Corrections
Part 8: Finally a TNT Pattern
I will be posting a new part in the series about once a week to give those that are following along time to apply my approach and ask questions. I will also conclude this series with a Give Away!! In order to qualify for the prize you will need to become a registered “follower” of my blog AND “like” my Facebook Page. This series is meant to be somewhat interactive with comments and questions from YOU. This is helpful because you will learn from others as well as from the information I’m providing. Excited Yet?? I hope so. Thanks for taking the time to read about my new series on my blog. Stay tuned for Part 1.
Update!! Here’s Part 1: Measuring Properly
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This entry was posted in creating a sloper
, fitted blouse
, fitting classes
, fitting techniques
, how to add ease. where to apply measurements
, pattern fitting
, pattern sizing
, Strikes My Fancy
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