April is National Serger Month!! I wanted to share some tips I’ve learned over the years about using a serger that I thought would be helpful for new owners. I also learned over the course of the year running my Singer Serger Fans Facebook Group that many members found these tips helpful. Right now the group is archived because it just became to much for me to manage as well as my other Facebook Group. I have other plans for the future and will be sharing them soon.
When starting out with a serger, it’s very important to have support. It’s not a good idea to just jump in without either taking a class (at a sewing store or online), finding an online support group, viewing videos or reading your manual. This just isn’t a step that’s smart to skip. This type of machine operates very differently from a conventional sewing machine. There are many moving parts, and blades to be concerned about not to mention tensions to contend with and learn to adjust properly. The other mistake many new serger owners make, is leaving them in their box until the initial return period has expired. Please don’t do this! I know you may be scared, but why? You took the first step with the purchase, now learn how to use your new machine.
TIPS
When starting out sewing on a conventional machine or serger, it’s important to create good sewing habits from the beginning. Learn the names of each part of your new machine. This way you can easily convey questions to other owners and not create confusion when asking something specific. Learn the ins and the outs. Learn everything from threading, to fine tuning your stitches, to maintenance. It’s ALL important. Your manual is your friend. Use it.
Keeping your machine clean and oiled is an important part of ownership. I use a nylon brush to sweep out lint and stray threads often from my machines when I use them during a project. I also believe in repurposing objects for reuse. I saved a couple of my old mascara wands for cleaning out my machines. It has a long handle and a tiny head so it can get into areas in which my larger brush can’t. I’ve read about a small vacuuming set that can attach to my current vacuum cleaner that people have great success with. Maybe this is an item on my Christmas list this year!!
I also direct my cuttings down as I start to sew. This is a good habit to get into when learning. I see people jam up their machines because their blades are dull and watch it happen. I know this, because they actually post videos of it happening. Please don’t do this. If something looks off, don’t continue. Your machine will be damaged.
Be very careful when sewing with straight pins with a serger. I use extra long quilting pins with a yellow head so they are very visible when sewing. Be careful to never sew over pins with a serger. It can ruin the blade and cause damage to your machine. Worse case, a broken, flying needle can cause an eye injury. Many new serger owners use wonder clips when sewing with a serger. I learned and have gotten used to the extra long straight pins made for quilting. Clips just seem odd to me, but at some point I may have to give them a try. I love exploring new tools that make my sewing experience better. Maybe I will ask for a set from “Santa” this year!!
When starting of a chain after threading, be sure to have all of your threads underneath the presser foot WITH the presser foot down. Gently guide threads to the back of the machine, NOT to the left side of the machine. Don’t pull the threads either. This is how many people damage the Brother needle plate and break needles.
Don’t skimp on needles. If setting up the serger to stitch a stitch that requires both needles as in the 4 thread, 2 needle ultra mock safety stitch, make sure both needles are new and the same size and type. Never mix needle types and sizes in your serger. Change needles often and don’t wait for them to break to change them. They’re not expensive and when they break they can cause serious damage to your machine.
If you’re brand new to sewing and serging, you may not have built up a nice stash of thread just yet. One of the Singer Serger Fans shared a photo of a technique called thread blending. This technique uses the colors grey, rose, and ivory to create a “blend” of shades that create a match for most colors. This may be a good way for new sewists to begin with a minimal thread purchase.
I’m all about the matchy matchy when it comes to colors for each project. If I don’t have a color in my stash that will match, I will purchase 2 small spools of thread for the serger needles and then use something close in my stash for the loopers. This is only for construction or finishing off seams. If I’m using either of the rolled hem options that will show on my project, I will choose to match perfectly. Be aware that mixed different brands of thread may cause the tension to be adjusted.
Be careful when opening the clear plastic shrink wrap plastic on cones of serger thread. If you cut any of the threads as you open the package, at some point that end will become the beginning and may cause your machine to become unthreaded for no apparent reason. It can be frustrating, especially if you’re in a sewing groove to have to stop and rethread.
It’s important to understand tension and learn how to adjust it for not only each fabrication but each weight of thread used. I will use threads of different brands all together on my machines to achieve a specific color for my projects. This may mean they are different weights of thread and that will affect the tension of the stitch. This is the reasoning behind sewing machine manufacturers suggesting the use of the same cones of thread in each of your needles and loopers. This is the best way for the operator to be successful with the suggested tensions settings in the manual. If you decide to use different brands of thread and different spool or cones sizes, just be aware that tensions may need to be adjusted.
If you own the Singer Pro Finish model, make sure to always put down your carry handle before starting to set up a stitch and set tensions. With the handle in the up position, it can interfere with thread tensions. I was frustrated with getting my tensions adjusted right after I moved my serger to another table in my sewing studio. Once I figured it out, I never made that mistake again.
Please keep in mind that learning anything new will always take time and effort. If you take the time necessary to create good habits and learn how to operate your machines properly, your success will follow. Make sure to find reliable sources for information. I see so many people struggle and ask questions only to see wrong advice given. I offer great video tutorials and have helped many many new serger owners get on their way to a whole new world of sewing.
